I love food. I love wine. And somehow I had the
good fortune to land a job that pays me to consume both on a regular
basis. The Fates were truly smiling down on me when I began working
for Carina Cellars three years ago, and since then I have enjoyed
learning as much as I can about the wonderful world of wine and
the culinary creations with which each wine pairs best. My passion
for these two consumable arts has led me to organize wine tastings
and winemaker dinners with some of Santa Barbara County’s
greatest chefs, yet only recently did I have the pleasure to put
on a cooking class with the talented chef John Fernandez of Santa
Barbara’s A Tavola!
I met John at an industry tasting at the
Bacara hotel a couple years ago. An incredibly gregarious and enthusiastic
individual,
John’s passion for cooking took him all the way to Italy
where he attended culinary school and worked as a chef in a restaurant
near Parma. “My greatest lessons from my experience in
Italy included not only those involving food and cooking,” said
John, “but also that family, friends, and community drew
their greatest strengths from dining together, every meal, every
day.” So
when John returned home from his time in Italy, he knew he wanted
to share this experience with others, which is why he created
A Tavola!, a company that focuses on teaching how to create those
traditional Italian dishes in your own home. “I cook because
I love food,” said John. “I also cook because food
can bring people together with family and friends. Family and
friends come together to become a community. I want to enable
people to
enjoy good food and to enjoy good food with the people they love.”
And so John and I, with our passions combined,
created an Italian cooking class where each dish would be paired
with a Carina
Cellars wine. Hayward Design Center in Santa Barbara was
generous enough to allow us to use their beautiful demo kitchen
to conduct our cooking classes, and so we gathered about 30 people
and put on three nights of cooking classes! Each class followed
the same structure: John talked about traditional Italian cooking
techniques, then demonstrated how to create the dish, and I followed
by talking about the wine with which it was paired, and then everyone
ate and drank and enjoyed! The first dish created was a Tagliatelle
with asparagus and white wine sauce, full of mixed summer vegetables.
This is a traditional dish from Bologna, but as John put it, it
could easily be from anywhere in Italy. We paired this dish with
the 2007 Viognier and the balanced acidity and citrus notes were
the perfect pair to this summer veggie pasta.
Next John showed
how to create Tortelli d’Erbetta, an emblematic pasta from
Parma, filled with a mixture of homemade ricotta and spinach with
a bit of melted butter and parmesan sprinkled over it. These absolutely
melt in your mouth! And when paired with the 2007 Grenache, the
bright fruit flavors were complimented perfectly by the sweeter
notes of the parmesan cheese. The Agnolotti con pollo came next,
and is another example of a traditional neighborhood Parma dish
filled with chicken and served in a savory grape sauce. Agnolotti
literally translates to mean “nun’s hat”, and
these little filled pastas looked just like that! We paired this
dish with the 2007 Clairvoyant, which is a southern Rhone-style
blend of 55% syrah, 33% Grenache and 12% mourvedre, and exhibits
an array of berry flavors that paired perfectly with the grape-flavored
sauce.
At this point in the evening
the teacher-student tension had well since worn off, and John was
interacting quite candidly with the “students”,
allowing them to try their hand at creating “nun’s
hats” and learning how to make the dough from scratch. We
continued to learn how to make Tagliatelle Bolognese, which as
John calls it, is the “ultimate in Italian comfort food”!
This traditional dish from Bologna is made with a wide-cut pasta
simmered in a ragu Bolognese sauce, and we paired it with the 2006
Syrah from Tierra Alta Vineyard. This syrah exhibits rich, dark
fruits with a delightfully peppery finish, and when brought together
with the beefy Bolognese dish, it was decadent. We continued with
another “nun’s hat” pasta: the Agnolotti
al plin,
which means “pinched nun’s hat” and is a pasta
characteristic of the Piemonte region. John showed us how to make
the lamb filling, and the lamb and tomato sauce, then we paired
it with the 2006 Syrah “7 Percent”. This blend of 7%
Viognier and 93% Syrah has a smoky, meatiness with a nice peppery
finish, which helped bring out the lamb flavor in both the filling
and the sauce.
You might think we would have been too stuffed
to go on at this point, but there’s always room for pear
raviolis with a pancetta gorgonzola sauce and walnuts sprinkled on top. These little pasta
pouches were filled with pears in a light cream sauce, and when
paired with the 2006 Late Harvest Viognier, the slightly salty
flavor of the gorgonzola cream sauce countered the sugar in the
wine, and satiated our palates with nothing but delicious pears!
For more information about chef John’s
cooking classes at
A Tavola!.
You can read another review of the evening at
GutFud.